Saturday, July 11, 2009

Maasai mara


I was in Kenya a few weeks back and decided to visit the Maasai mara. Actually, I was accompanying a friend from Europe coz why would I go to such a tourist place having grown up in Kenya? Well I was wrong and so were those who made such snide comments like, "you've only been away for a short time and you're already acting like a tourist?" Let's just say they were very wrong, I had the time of my life.

Our journey started at about 9am from Nairobi by road (we were meant to leave at 6am but that's a story for another day). We stopped for some cheesy photos at the Great rift valley which extends from the middle east to Africa and divides Kenya into east and west - truly spectacular. We also had a good view of mount Longonot (dormant volcano) as we haggled with hawkers who saw a good opportunity to peddle us some of their wares. By this time I have to say my guest was highly impressed by the great scenery and was speaking excitedly ... louder than usual. Next we stopped at one of the small towns 'Mai Mahiu' for some R&R and to buy some Kenyan art. Loaded with an almost life size wooden carving of a maasai woman's head, carved fruit bowls and other paraphernalia, we then set out to our destination satisfied that we'd made a great bargain and oblivious of the adventure awaiting us.

We arrived at our beautiful and tastefully decorated tented camp at the maasai mara in time for a quick lunch before heading out for our first game drive. The unfenced national park was right next to some maasai villages (manyattas) ... apparently the maasais and the wildlife have some kind of an understanding, almost like a treaty???? Right at the beginning of the park, our experienced tour guide spotted a leopard resting on a tree branch. We spent the next few hours watching the animals in awe. Apart from the elusive rhino, we managed to spot 4 of the big 5 (Lion, Elephant, Leopard, Buffalo) plus many antelopes, zebras, wildebeest, gazelles, ostrich etc. Our experienced guide had more than 30 years experience as a tour guide and knew his animals well. He was also an avid photographer and took us to areas where we could take the best picture shots. Did I mention how we shamelessly spent 1 hour following a lion and lioness that were about to mate? To our disappointment, they turned out to be a bit shy and we had to give up this noble ambition.

After sunset, we went back for a nice meal and some tuskers (arguably the best beer in Africa;). The nights were quiet apart from the occasional growl in the dark that punctuated the stillness. At dawn, we'd wake up to the sound of birds chirping and the smell of fresh dew. That was the best sleep I have had in a long time, lights off at 9pm, no music, no radios and most of the times no mobile phone network coverage.

On day 2 of our safari, we were out by dawn to go watch the sun rise and 5 minutes into the game drive, spotted a pack of cheetahs. The following day we went on a drive to the Tanzanian boarder to watch the wildebeest migrate to Kenya in search of greener pastures (wildebeest migration happens between July-October).

Overall, we had a fantastic time and how could I forget the hospitality of the maasai people ... welcoming tourists into their manyattas for a little fee and energetic children running after the vehicles wearing big smiles and waving furiously.

Would I go back? Yes, yes, yes, yes.

So, if you've not been on safari, you are missing out big time.

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